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	<title>The Last Straw Blog &#187; framing</title>
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		<title>Bale Preparation &#8211; TLS #50</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/bale-preparation-tls-50/</link>
		<comments>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/bale-preparation-tls-50/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Jun 2009 00:51:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[TLS #50]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bales]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[framing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mudders]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plaster pumping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plaster Systems]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[straw bale house]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stucco pump]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=176</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This article originally appeared in TLS issue #50, 2005 by Tony Caniglia &#8211; Colorado, USA This technique was developed to reduce the amount of fill with loose straw or straw/clay required when the bent (rounded) sides of the bales are butted together. The purpose is to remove the bulge on the ends of the bales [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>This article originally appeared in TLS issue #50, 2005</em></p>
<div id="attachment_516" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-516" title="P7110373" src="http://thelaststrawblog.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/P71103731-300x225.jpg" alt="Load-bearing walls waiting preparation" width="300" height="225" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Load-bearing walls waiting preparation</p></div>
<p>by Tony Caniglia &#8211; Colorado, USA</p>
<p>This technique was developed to reduce the amount of fill with loose straw<br />
or straw/clay required when the bent (rounded) sides of the bales are butted<br />
together. The purpose is to remove the bulge on the ends of the bales so<br />
that the bales are squared up and fit right up tight together.</p>
<p>Prepping the bales before stacking them can help make them nice and square.<br />
Do this somewhere away from the house or building for fire safety, to keep<br />
the dust away from other workers, and to collect the loose straw that will<br />
be created.  Start with a large number of bales. Use a couple of other bales<br />
to help hold one bale stand up on end. With your chainsaw, cut downward a<br />
few inches next to the strings on the end of the bale and move the chainsaw<br />
out toward the edge of the bale.  The bales may have a little roundness<br />
between the strings, so clean that area up, too. Try and keep your chain saw<br />
level, and don¹t hit those strings! Step back to eyeball it to see if the<br />
bale looks square. Clean up 6 to 10 bales, then set the chainsaw down and<br />
flip all the bales over to stand them up on the other end, and do the other<br />
side. You may have to lay the bales on edge and, with a little jump, put<br />
your knee into the bale or hit it with a sledge hammer if it has a curve to<br />
it. You could also lay the bales flat on top of a bench, if you don¹t want<br />
to bend over or want to keep the bale stable (another person working with<br />
you can help make this work easier, too).</p>
<p>You may occasionally hit a string with your chainsaw, say one out of ten,<br />
but it is easy to restring the bale. Just tie another piece of string about<br />
16 inches long to the cut string and make a loop knot on one end. Put the<br />
other end through the loop, crank it down (pull it tight) and tie it off.<br />
Once square, the bales push together better and will help make the walls<br />
more stout with less voids. This means little or no stuffing with loose<br />
straw. When the bales are stacked, grab a 4-ft level, a couple of sledge<br />
hammers (or other ³bale bangers² as you prefer) and get another person to<br />
help. One of you should stand on the inside of the wall and the other one on<br />
the outside of the wall. Smack the bales so they don¹t overlap one another<br />
too much. Focus on getting one side as plumb as you can (for example, work<br />
on getting the inside plumb). Now trim the surface of the bales on both<br />
sides of the wall (inside and out) with a chainsaw or weed whacker. Be sure<br />
to do the whole wall, top to bottom. That will help to finish cleaning up<br />
any overlapping bales and any humps, bumps and lumps. This nice, plumb wall<br />
will make your lathing, netting, plastering and troweling process easier,<br />
not to mention the money you will save in stucco materials! And these<br />
beautiful, straight walls may make your building easier to sell in the<br />
future!</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Tips about Bales &#8211; TLS #50</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/tips-about-bales-tls-50/</link>
		<comments>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/tips-about-bales-tls-50/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jun 2009 23:28:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[TLS #50]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bales]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[framing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[straw bale house]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Last Straw]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=164</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This article orignally appeared in issue #50, 2005 by Joyce Coppinger &#8211; Nebraska, USA Tips about Bales Why wait until you have the framing done and the roof on before finding your bales. Find your bales during the planning process and well before you begin construction. Knowing the size of the bales before you design [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>This article orignally appeared in issue #50, 2005</em></p>
<p>by Joyce Coppinger &#8211; Nebraska, USA</p>
<p><strong><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-169" title="p8060026" src="http://thelaststrawblog.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/p8060026-300x225.jpg" alt="p8060026" width="300" height="225" />Tips about Bales</strong><br />
Why wait until you have the framing done and the roof on before finding<br />
your bales. Find your bales during the planning process and well before you<br />
begin construction. Knowing the size of the bales before you design the<br />
building will help you determine wall spans and wall heights, perhaps saving<br />
some of the cutting and retying of the bales, and can help you decide how to<br />
stack the bales­ flat or on edge. Placement of windows and doors may be<br />
easier to determine. You will even have time to select the best bales to<br />
use, eliminating those that might have weeds and seeds, signs of moisture or<br />
mildew, or aren&#8217;t shaped or tied well. For help in finding and buying your<br />
bales, try these web sites:</p>
<p><a  href="http://www.strawlocator.com">www.strawlocator.com</a> &#8211; At this web site, you can list the specifications for<br />
the bales you need for your project, and you can search the listings of bale<br />
suppliers.</p>
<p><a  href="http://www.hayexchange.com">www.hayexchange.com</a> &#8211; Remember &#8220;hay&#8221; is not &#8220;straw&#8221; when searching this web<br />
site.</p>
<p><a  href="http://www.thelaststraw.org">www.thelaststraw.org</a> &#8211; Click on Back Issues &amp; CD-Rom, then scroll down to<br />
2003 Resource Guide. The highlighted article titled Bale Wisdom-Bale Buying<br />
101 lists 20 tips for buying your bales, information on bale orientation,<br />
bale storage and handling bales.</p>
<p>When you know the size of the bales in the design process, you can<br />
calculate wall heights so that you have full bales in each course,<br />
eliminating the need to fill flakes and cakes at the top of the wall. You<br />
can also calculate the placement of windows and doors so they fit readily<br />
into the bale courses as they are stacked and/or the framing for the windows<br />
can be spaced so a full bale fits under and above the windows and above the<br />
doors.</p>
<p>Trimming the bales to eliminate the bent or folded (rounded) ends will<br />
give you a rectangular unit to work with. All sides of the bale will have<br />
cut stems and, when the bales are stacked, will lock together better­top,<br />
bottom and sides. The triangular hole between bales that occurs when bales<br />
are not cut will be eliminated, so you won&#8217;t have to stuff as much loose<br />
straw or light straw/clay fill between the bales and bale courses. (See Tech<br />
Tip, pg 23)</p>
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