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	<title>Comments for The Last Straw Blog</title>
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	<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org</link>
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	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 03 Feb 2010 17:41:47 -0800</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Earth Floor &#8211; TLS #52 by carol wheeler</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/earth-floor-tls-52/comment-page-1/#comment-1202</link>
		<dc:creator>carol wheeler</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Feb 2010 17:41:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=147#comment-1202</guid>
		<description>Tom,  Would it be possible to have your earth floor articiles mail to me at P.o. Box 3801, Gallup, New Mexico 87305.  Thank you.  carol</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tom,  Would it be possible to have your earth floor articiles mail to me at P.o. Box 3801, Gallup, New Mexico 87305.  Thank you.  carol</p>
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		<title>Comment on Why We Build with Earthbags &#8211; TLS #55 by Presenting&#8230; the Green Building College! &#171; Green Building</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/10/build-earthbags-tls-55/comment-page-1/#comment-826</link>
		<dc:creator>Presenting&#8230; the Green Building College! &#171; Green Building</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Jan 2010 10:50:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/?p=526#comment-826</guid>
		<description>[...] particular their BaleHaus at Bath. (Yes, I love those too!) Here&#8217;s another interesting one on sandbag building (or earthbags, as they call them &#8211; same [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] particular their BaleHaus at Bath. (Yes, I love those too!) Here&#8217;s another interesting one on sandbag building (or earthbags, as they call them &#8211; same [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on Finishing Bale Walls with Siding &#8211; TLS #57 by Dan Johnson</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/finishing-bale-walls-with-siding/comment-page-1/#comment-818</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan Johnson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Jan 2010 00:20:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=203#comment-818</guid>
		<description>Reading through the comments on moisture penetration, I thought this may be of interest:

“WATERWAY” 
RAINSCREEN DRAINAGE MATS 

HEALTHIER WALLS THROUGH RAINSCREEN &amp; VENTIATION

CREATE SPACE  
BETWEEN YOUR BUILDING AND THE ELEMENTS

Fundamental theory in cladding integrity prevents liquid water from penetrating vertical walls, ideally through appropriate materials selection, architectural detailing and professional execution consistent with specifications and construction documents. 

We can all attest to the increased frequency of problems arising from water infiltration and deterioration in exterior envelopes. Particularly, wood framed buildings constructed to more stringent codes, appear increasingly susceptible to problems unlike older, drafty and un-insulated walls built decades ago. Avoiding deterioration in older buildings is not a result of better resistance to water intrusion, but rather a better ability to dissipate the moisture. Forensic evaluations note compromise from moisture penetration increase significantly if water is unable to evaporate or drain, causing accelerated consequential damage. Absent perfect design, execution, materials performance and continued maintenance, inevitably problems can develop.

If we are more susceptible to decay, let’s consider requirements for mold growth: 

#1. Spores – In wet or humid climates, mold spores are present everywhere.
#2. Temperatures - Generally above 40 degrees F.
#3. Food Source – Most organic materials including wood and paper products. 
#4. Oxygen – Even with low permeance building materials. 
#5. Water – Varies by species, but growth occurs at levels between 20% - 40%.  

Depending on project location and climate, the moisture content of even protected building products may fluctuate at levels just below the minimum required for fungal growth. And if one considers four of the five elements needed for mold development are inevitably present at all times, even a small amount of additional water can result in decay, causing deterioration.  

If modern construction techniques reduce water vapor diffusion and agree moisture will likely penetrate outside walls, it is important to incorporate a defensive strategy to mitigate the effects of water intrusion and prevent rot. 


“CREATE SPACE WITH VERTICAL WALL DRAINAGE MATS” 

WaterWay Rainscreen Drainage Mats provide that additional space for drainage. They also contribute to air circulation and ventilation when properly designed. The combination of water drainage and increased air flow will enhance drying and in turn reduce the damaging effects of water penetration. Building papers and house-wraps are well established in providing some protection against substrate damage. Traditional barriers offer a marginal safeguard, but they do not always provide an adequate path for drainage. With siding materials tightly installed against weather resistive barriers, opportunities for drainage and ventilation can be inadequate or even blocked. 

The Code (ICC and IRC) Mandate:

“Exterior wall envelopes are required to be weather- resistant and provide a means for draining water that enters the assembly”

Engineers and designers are exploring various configurations to accommodate the code and remove water from the exterior walls while incorporating some mechanism of ventilation. Enhancing air flow and managing entrapped moisture make sense; the challenge lies in a simple, efficient and cost effective approach.

“WaterWay Drainage Mats” consist of a Nylon / Polymer core of fused, entangled filaments in varying thicknesses from a nominal ¼ inch to ¾ inch, depending on desired cavity space and cladding selection.  Certain profiles are available with a protective filter fabric bonded to one side, even our “Patent Pending” polyolefin-based house-wrap is available with drainage mat attached. “WaterWay” Rainscreen mats are equally effective for stucco, EIFS, manufactured stone, fiber-cement, brick, standard lap and cedar sidings and other wall system materials. 

This technique achieves desired results with limited additional expense. The incorporation of WaterWay Rainscreen Drainage Mats can run as little as $.65 a square foot for materials. With varying labor rates it’s difficult to offer a specific cost for installation, although it should not be more that $.95 - $1.50 (labor &amp; materials) per square foot. With over 60 million feet in service and an exponential increase in demand, you can feel confident in this effective concept.  

For additional information on the “WaterWay Rainscreen Drainage Mats” including product data sheets, profile samples, test reports, detail drawings, specifications and an animated DVD presentation. 

Contact Stuc-O-Flex International, Inc. @ 1-800-305-1045 
 www.stucoflex.com or e-mail techservice@stucoflex.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Reading through the comments on moisture penetration, I thought this may be of interest:</p>
<p>“WATERWAY”<br />
RAINSCREEN DRAINAGE MATS </p>
<p>HEALTHIER WALLS THROUGH RAINSCREEN &amp; VENTIATION</p>
<p>CREATE SPACE<br />
BETWEEN YOUR BUILDING AND THE ELEMENTS</p>
<p>Fundamental theory in cladding integrity prevents liquid water from penetrating vertical walls, ideally through appropriate materials selection, architectural detailing and professional execution consistent with specifications and construction documents. </p>
<p>We can all attest to the increased frequency of problems arising from water infiltration and deterioration in exterior envelopes. Particularly, wood framed buildings constructed to more stringent codes, appear increasingly susceptible to problems unlike older, drafty and un-insulated walls built decades ago. Avoiding deterioration in older buildings is not a result of better resistance to water intrusion, but rather a better ability to dissipate the moisture. Forensic evaluations note compromise from moisture penetration increase significantly if water is unable to evaporate or drain, causing accelerated consequential damage. Absent perfect design, execution, materials performance and continued maintenance, inevitably problems can develop.</p>
<p>If we are more susceptible to decay, let’s consider requirements for mold growth: </p>
<p>#1. Spores – In wet or humid climates, mold spores are present everywhere.<br />
#2. Temperatures &#8211; Generally above 40 degrees F.<br />
#3. Food Source – Most organic materials including wood and paper products.<br />
#4. Oxygen – Even with low permeance building materials.<br />
#5. Water – Varies by species, but growth occurs at levels between 20% &#8211; 40%.  </p>
<p>Depending on project location and climate, the moisture content of even protected building products may fluctuate at levels just below the minimum required for fungal growth. And if one considers four of the five elements needed for mold development are inevitably present at all times, even a small amount of additional water can result in decay, causing deterioration.  </p>
<p>If modern construction techniques reduce water vapor diffusion and agree moisture will likely penetrate outside walls, it is important to incorporate a defensive strategy to mitigate the effects of water intrusion and prevent rot. </p>
<p>“CREATE SPACE WITH VERTICAL WALL DRAINAGE MATS” </p>
<p>WaterWay Rainscreen Drainage Mats provide that additional space for drainage. They also contribute to air circulation and ventilation when properly designed. The combination of water drainage and increased air flow will enhance drying and in turn reduce the damaging effects of water penetration. Building papers and house-wraps are well established in providing some protection against substrate damage. Traditional barriers offer a marginal safeguard, but they do not always provide an adequate path for drainage. With siding materials tightly installed against weather resistive barriers, opportunities for drainage and ventilation can be inadequate or even blocked. </p>
<p>The Code (ICC and IRC) Mandate:</p>
<p>“Exterior wall envelopes are required to be weather- resistant and provide a means for draining water that enters the assembly”</p>
<p>Engineers and designers are exploring various configurations to accommodate the code and remove water from the exterior walls while incorporating some mechanism of ventilation. Enhancing air flow and managing entrapped moisture make sense; the challenge lies in a simple, efficient and cost effective approach.</p>
<p>“WaterWay Drainage Mats” consist of a Nylon / Polymer core of fused, entangled filaments in varying thicknesses from a nominal ¼ inch to ¾ inch, depending on desired cavity space and cladding selection.  Certain profiles are available with a protective filter fabric bonded to one side, even our “Patent Pending” polyolefin-based house-wrap is available with drainage mat attached. “WaterWay” Rainscreen mats are equally effective for stucco, EIFS, manufactured stone, fiber-cement, brick, standard lap and cedar sidings and other wall system materials. </p>
<p>This technique achieves desired results with limited additional expense. The incorporation of WaterWay Rainscreen Drainage Mats can run as little as $.65 a square foot for materials. With varying labor rates it’s difficult to offer a specific cost for installation, although it should not be more that $.95 &#8211; $1.50 (labor &amp; materials) per square foot. With over 60 million feet in service and an exponential increase in demand, you can feel confident in this effective concept.  </p>
<p>For additional information on the “WaterWay Rainscreen Drainage Mats” including product data sheets, profile samples, test reports, detail drawings, specifications and an animated DVD presentation. </p>
<p>Contact Stuc-O-Flex International, Inc. @ 1-800-305-1045<br />
 <a  href="http://www.stucoflex.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.stucoflex.com</a> or e-mail <a  href="mailto:techservice@stucoflex.com">techservice@stucoflex.com</a></p>
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		<title>Comment on House of Straw? &#8211; Reprint from TLS #57 by Joyce</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/05/house-of-straw-reprint-in-tls-57/comment-page-1/#comment-776</link>
		<dc:creator>Joyce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 01:25:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=48#comment-776</guid>
		<description>The calculation for square foot cost varies greatly from project to project. It depends on what is included in the calculations - just building costs and no labor or land or improvement costs - permits and fees, access such as roads and driveways; utility connections; heating,cooling, ventilation systems, etc. The location of the project also affects per square foot costs - differences in climate, soils, local codes and standards, and so on.

Most straw-bale buildings currently constructed are equivalent to other types of construction - around $100 to $150 per sf for owner/built, more for custom-designed and builder constructed structures.

Would appreciate hearing from owner/builders, architects and builders about their cost calculations.

Check the International Straw Bale Registry at http://sbregistry.greenbuilder.com for more cost and building design information.

Joyce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The calculation for square foot cost varies greatly from project to project. It depends on what is included in the calculations &#8211; just building costs and no labor or land or improvement costs &#8211; permits and fees, access such as roads and driveways; utility connections; heating,cooling, ventilation systems, etc. The location of the project also affects per square foot costs &#8211; differences in climate, soils, local codes and standards, and so on.</p>
<p>Most straw-bale buildings currently constructed are equivalent to other types of construction &#8211; around $100 to $150 per sf for owner/built, more for custom-designed and builder constructed structures.</p>
<p>Would appreciate hearing from owner/builders, architects and builders about their cost calculations.</p>
<p>Check the International Straw Bale Registry at <a  href="http://sbregistry.greenbuilder.com" rel="nofollow">http://sbregistry.greenbuilder.com</a> for more cost and building design information.</p>
<p>Joyce</p>
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		<title>Comment on Siberia 2008 (Altai Project, Builders Without Borders) by Lenn Honolulu Floor</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/03/siberia-2008-altai-project-builders-without-borders/comment-page-1/#comment-513</link>
		<dc:creator>Lenn Honolulu Floor</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Dec 2009 03:12:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://strawbale.buildearth.org/?p=34#comment-513</guid>
		<description>Hello I sumbled upon your website by chance, I was surfing around Google for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flashflooringhawaii.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hawaii flooring installers&lt;/a&gt; when I came upon your blog, I must say your site is very interesting I just love the layout, its amazing!. I&#039;m in a bit of a rush at the moment to fully browse your blog but I have favorited it and also signed up for your RSS feeds. I will be back when I free up some time. Bravo for a great website.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello I sumbled upon your website by chance, I was surfing around Google for <a  href="http://www.flashflooringhawaii.com" rel="nofollow">Hawaii flooring installers</a> when I came upon your blog, I must say your site is very interesting I just love the layout, its amazing!. I&#8217;m in a bit of a rush at the moment to fully browse your blog but I have favorited it and also signed up for your RSS feeds. I will be back when I free up some time. Bravo for a great website.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Fire in a House With Straw Bale Walls by Dale</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/08/fire-house-straw-bale-walls/comment-page-1/#comment-363</link>
		<dc:creator>Dale</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Nov 2009 18:26:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=101#comment-363</guid>
		<description>Having been raised on a farm in Iowa I understand the smoldering of the bales due to lack of air for the fire to ignite from.  Forage put up wet in bales will ignite from spontaneous combustion.  When they do ignite the entire stack needs to be taken apart.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Having been raised on a farm in Iowa I understand the smoldering of the bales due to lack of air for the fire to ignite from.  Forage put up wet in bales will ignite from spontaneous combustion.  When they do ignite the entire stack needs to be taken apart.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Sealing an Earth Floor &#8211; TLS # 55 by Ginger Mullins</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/08/sealing-earth-floor-tls-53/comment-page-1/#comment-220</link>
		<dc:creator>Ginger Mullins</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 13:50:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=354#comment-220</guid>
		<description>I am a housewife in Arkansas. I have taken up the existing old wood floor which was very unlevel. for awhile we had a sunken living room 4feet deep. We just bought a load of sand and filled in the hole. I was wanting to do an earthen floor. I watch an episode on plant green. I was interested in how far they got with this product and would like to talk to some people who have them.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am a housewife in Arkansas. I have taken up the existing old wood floor which was very unlevel. for awhile we had a sunken living room 4feet deep. We just bought a load of sand and filled in the hole. I was wanting to do an earthen floor. I watch an episode on plant green. I was interested in how far they got with this product and would like to talk to some people who have them.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Finishing Bale Walls with Siding &#8211; TLS #57 by Jeff</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/finishing-bale-walls-with-siding/comment-page-1/#comment-171</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 21:04:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=203#comment-171</guid>
		<description>Rene,

Thanks for the very good point regarding a lack of visual connection to the wall.  It makes a good case for installing moisture sensors.

Jeff</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rene,</p>
<p>Thanks for the very good point regarding a lack of visual connection to the wall.  It makes a good case for installing moisture sensors.</p>
<p>Jeff</p>
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		<title>Comment on Finishing Bale Walls with Siding &#8211; TLS #57 by René Dalmeijer</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/finishing-bale-walls-with-siding/comment-page-1/#comment-166</link>
		<dc:creator>René Dalmeijer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 13:38:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=203#comment-166</guid>
		<description>Jeff,

We use rain screens over SB quite a lot in the Netherlands due to our climate. We can have long wet spells where Lime plasters can have difficulty in dealing with the amount of water. Besides this we often are forced to space restriction to build more stories thus increasing the amount of exposure. Sometimes we just have to resort to a rain screen.

As jeff says a rain screen requires careful detailing to prevent it from becoming a source of moisture damage. Beside this I would like to add the main drawback of a rain screen. With a rain screen if there is moisture build up in the plaster or bales it is not so obvious as with a visible plaster. The rain screen hides moist spots which makes problems hard to detect.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jeff,</p>
<p>We use rain screens over SB quite a lot in the Netherlands due to our climate. We can have long wet spells where Lime plasters can have difficulty in dealing with the amount of water. Besides this we often are forced to space restriction to build more stories thus increasing the amount of exposure. Sometimes we just have to resort to a rain screen.</p>
<p>As jeff says a rain screen requires careful detailing to prevent it from becoming a source of moisture damage. Beside this I would like to add the main drawback of a rain screen. With a rain screen if there is moisture build up in the plaster or bales it is not so obvious as with a visible plaster. The rain screen hides moist spots which makes problems hard to detect.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Finishing Bale Walls with Siding &#8211; TLS #57 by Remodeling Contractors Palatine</title>
		<link>http://www.thelaststrawblog.org/2009/06/finishing-bale-walls-with-siding/comment-page-1/#comment-54</link>
		<dc:creator>Remodeling Contractors Palatine</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:31:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thelaststraw.org/?p=203#comment-54</guid>
		<description>I think that when you are remodeling you want to be around the project as much as possible! 
If you can do a lot of it yourself that helps on quality and money. 
Usually the best job done is the one you do because you know how you want it done and you 
want it done nicely because you’ll be seeing it everyday - the contracter wont! 
Thanks for this blog it had a lot of great information!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think that when you are remodeling you want to be around the project as much as possible!<br />
If you can do a lot of it yourself that helps on quality and money.<br />
Usually the best job done is the one you do because you know how you want it done and you<br />
want it done nicely because you’ll be seeing it everyday &#8211; the contracter wont!<br />
Thanks for this blog it had a lot of great information!</p>
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